The Complete New Sod Care Guide: Your First 60 Days

The Clock Starts Now

The moment your new sod is laid, a countdown begins. The first 60 days are the most critical period in your lawn's life. The decisions you make about watering, mowing, fertilizing, and foot traffic during this window will determine whether your investment thrives for decades or fails within weeks.

This guide is based on nearly 40 years of experience installing sod in Jacksonville's specific climate. It is not generic advice; it is calibrated for Northeast Florida's heat, humidity, sandy soil, and seasonal patterns.

Watering: The Make-or-Break Factor

Watering is, without question, the single most important aspect of new sod care. Both overwatering and underwatering can kill new sod, but in Jacksonville's heat, underwatering is the more common killer.

Phase 1: Days 1-7 (The Saturation Phase)

Goal: Keep the soil underneath the sod consistently moist at all times.

• Frequency: Water 2-3 times per day.
• Duration: 15-20 minutes per zone, per session. You want the water to soak through the sod and into the top 1-2 inches of soil beneath it.
• Test: Lift a corner of the sod. The soil underneath should be dark and moist. If it's dry and light brown, increase watering.
• Timing: First watering at sunrise (6 AM). Second around midday (11 AM - 1 PM) to combat afternoon heat. Third in early afternoon if needed (3-4 PM). Never water after sunset as it promotes fungal growth.

Phase 2: Days 8-14 (The Transition Phase)

Goal: Begin training the roots to grow deeper by gradually reducing frequency.

• Frequency: Water once per day.
• Duration: 30-40 minutes per zone to push water deeper into the soil.
• Test: The "Tug Test." Gently pull on a corner of the sod. If you feel resistance, roots are establishing. If it lifts easily, stay in Phase 1.

Phase 3: Days 15-30 (The Deep Soak Phase)

Goal: Transition to a deep-watering, infrequent schedule that builds drought tolerance.

• Frequency: Every other day (3-4 times per week).
• Duration: 45-60 minutes per zone.
• Why: By watering deeply and less often, you force the roots to chase the water deeper into the soil. This creates a robust root system that can survive heat and short dry spells.

Phase 4: Days 30-60 (The Established Schedule)

Goal: Move to the long-term watering schedule.

• Frequency: 2 times per week (consistent with local water restrictions).
• Duration: 45-60 minutes per zone.
• When: Always before 10 AM. Ideally, 4:00 AM - 6:00 AM start time.

Mowing: The First Cut

Mowing is traumatic for grass. It reduces the leaf surface area available for photosynthesis. For new sod, it can be disastrous if done too early.

When to Mow

Wait at least 3 weeks (21 days). Do not mow until your "tug test" confirms the sod is firmly rooted. If the roots aren't set, the suction from the mower can lift the sod right off the ground, destroying your progress.

Best Practices for the First Mow

• Height Matters: Set your mower to the highest possible setting. You are just giving it a light trim. Scalping new sod causes shock and exposes the soil to sunlight, encouraging weed seeds to germinate.
• Sharp Blades Only: A dull blade tears the grass rather than slicing it. This leaves ragged tips that turn brown and become entry points for disease. If your blade hasn't been sharpened this season, do it before touching your new sod.
• The 1/3rd Rule: Never remove more than 1/3rd of the grass blade at once. If the grass has grown to 6 inches, don't cut it lower than 4 inches. If you need to go lower, wait 3 days and mow again.
• Bag vs. Mulch: For the first few mows, bag the clippings. Heavy clumps of wet grass left on the surface can smother the young sod underneath.

Traffic and Compaction

It is tempting to run out and play on the new green carpet, but the soil underneath is soft and muddy from the heavy watering schedule.

• Stay Off: Keep foot traffic to an absolute minimum for the first 3 weeks. Walking on saturated soil causes compaction, which squeezes out the oxygen pockets that roots need to survive.
• Pet Control: This is crucial. Large dogs running can tear the seams apart. Furthermore, dog urine is high in nitrogen and salts, which will instantly burn the tender new grass. Walk pets elsewhere or hose down the spot immediately after they go.

Fertilization & Chemicals: The Waiting Game

A common mistake is "loving the lawn to death" with too many products.

• No Nitrogen Yet: Your sod was likely fertilized at the farm before harvest. Adding high-nitrogen fertilizer to a rootless plant causes leaf growth at the expense of root growth. Wait at least 30 to 60 days before the first light feeding.
• Ban the Herbicides: Do not use weed killers, crabgrass preventers, or "Weed and Feed" products for at least 3 months. These chemicals work by inhibiting plant growth--exactly what you don't want right now. Hand-pull any weeds that pop up in the seams.

Troubleshooting Common Issues

Problem: Brown/Yellow Edges at the Seams

Diagnosis: Underwatering. The edges of the sod roll are the first to dry out.

Solution: Increase watering time and hand-water the seams. Walk the lines to press them down if they have curled up.

Problem: Sod feels mushy, smells like rotten eggs, or has black slime at the base.

Diagnosis: Overwatering / Poor Drainage. The roots are drowning and rotting.

Solution: Skip a watering cycle. Let the surface dry out slightly. Ensure your sprinklers aren't overlapping too heavily in that spot.

Problem: Circular brown patches that expand rapidly.

Diagnosis: Fungus (likely Brown Patch or Grey Leaf Spot), often caused by watering late in the evening.

Solution: Switch watering to early morning only. You may need a fungicide application--consult a professional before applying.

Remember: Sod is a living product. No two lawns are identical. Monitor your grass daily, adjust based on the weather (skip watering if it rains heavily!), and give it the time it needs to establish. A little patience now guarantees a stunning lawn for years to come.